Honey sits near the top of every list of frequently adulterated foods, for a simple reason: it is an expensive sugar solution, and cheap sugar solutions can be made to resemble it. What has changed over the years is not whether adulteration happens but how well it hides. Syrups have been engineered to pass the tests that once caught them, which means the question a buyer asks — "is this honey authentic?" — has to be followed by a second one: "which analysis would actually show me if it were not?"
Two different questions, often confused
A honey analysis usually answers one of two things. Is this lot in good condition? And is this lot what it claims to be? Buyers frequently receive a certificate that answers the first and assume it has answered the second.
Condition is covered by the parameters in Directive 2001/110/EC: sugar content, moisture, water-insoluble content, electrical conductivity, free acid, diastase activity and hydroxymethylfurfural, with diastase and HMF determined after processing and blending. Authenticity is a separate set of methods aimed at detecting foreign sugars and misdeclared origin. A certificate can be clean on condition and silent on authenticity.
What HMF and diastase are for
Hydroxymethylfurfural forms when honey is heated or stored too long; the EU limit for honey placed on the market is 40 mg/kg, with a higher ceiling of 80 mg/kg for honeys of declared tropical origin. Diastase is an enzyme naturally present in honey that degrades under the same conditions, measured on the Schade scale.
Both are useful, and both are markers of handling rather than authenticity. An overheated honey shows high HMF and low diastase. A carefully adulterated honey — syrup added to a fresh, gently handled lot — can show excellent figures on both. Treating them as authenticity tests is the most common error in honey specification, and it is an understandable one, because they are the two numbers on every certificate.